The drink that tastes salty (3)

I believe the answer is:

sea

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'the drink' is the definition.
(old nickname for the sea)

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

(Other definitions for sea that I've seen before include "Large body of salt water" , "Great expanse of water" , "Body of saltwater" , "that's easily reached from Dover?" , "Cause of flooding" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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