The language, when it’s non-vegetarian food! (6)

I believe the answer is:

tongue

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'the language' is the definition.
(tongue is a kind of language)

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

(Other definitions for tongue that I've seen before include "Style of speaking; lick" , "cold meat?" , "manner of speaking" , "Organ of taste" , "'Red lorry, yellow lorry', for example" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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