The spirit of France (6)

I believe the answer is:

cognac

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'the spirit' is the definition.

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

(Other definitions for cognac that I've seen before include "High quality brandy" , "(French district famed for) fine brandy" , "Good brandy" , "French town - French brandy" , "Brandy of the French Charente" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.

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