The wine department (7)

I believe the answer is:

moselle

I believe this clue is a double definition.

'the wine' is the first definition.
(Moselle is an example)

'department' is the second definition.
(I know that Moselle is a department)

(Other definitions for moselle that I've seen before include "French department" , "Light white wine" , "French or German white wine" , "Fr. river, department; German wine" , "River; white wine" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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