Crossword Genius

This hors d'oeuvre gets the spirits up (6,2,9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

angels on horseback

But I can't explain it at all!

(Other definitions for angels on horseback that I've seen before include "something to whet the appetite" , "appetizer" , "An hors d'oeuvre" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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