Crossword Genius

Tipped over dessert to wind up restaurant (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

trattoria

'restaurant' is the definition.
(type of Italian restaurant)

'tipped over dessert to wind up' is the wordplay.
'tipped over' shows that the letters should be reversed in order.
'dessert' becomes 'tart' (type of dessert).
'wind' becomes 'air' (air is a kind of wind).
'up' says the letters should be written backwards (in down clue: letters go upwards).
'tart' in reverse letter order is 'trat'.
'air' back-to-front is 'ria'.
'trat'+'to'+'ria'='TRATTORIA'

(Other definitions for trattoria that I've seen before include "Italian eating establishment" , "Place to eat" , "Italian restaurant" , "where Italians eat" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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