Unimportant person’s criticism of thin wine? (6)

I believe the answer is:

nobody

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'unimportant person's' is the definition.
(I've seen this in another clue)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for nobody that I've seen before include "Ineffective person" , "problem for Morse?" , "Unimportant person" , "The Diary of a - - (G & W Grossmith)" , "Lightweight" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.

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