Very quiet in middle of supper? (10)

I believe the answer is:

pianissimo

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'very quiet' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

(Other definitions for pianissimo that I've seen before include "Very softly" , "(To be played) very quietly" , "Very quietly (music)" , "Very soft (music)" , "Very quiet" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.

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