What chef could cook in pan (5)

I believe the answer is:

roast

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'pan' is the definition.
(both can mean to criticise)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

(Other definitions for roast that I've seen before include "open-air party in US" , "Cooked joint" , "Cook in oven or by exposure to heat" , "Give a telling off to - cook" , "Heat strongly - criticise excessively" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times and The Sunday Times.

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