Crossword Genius

What you might say brings a smile to all sides today (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

cheese

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'today' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I can't see how one could define the other.

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for cheese that I've seen before include "Food made from milk curds" , "Feta, for example" , "Product of milk curds" , "Eg, cheddar" , "product of cottage industry?" .)

I've seen this clue in the Irish Times and the Irish Times (Crosaire).
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