Crossword Genius

Wherein to eat jam? (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

mess

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'jam?' is the definition.
(both can mean a difficult situation)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for mess that I've seen before include "pap" , "dish" , "Canteen - chaos" , "sloppy > food" , "Where one might eat" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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