Wine bar hides Barolo at the back (5)

I believe the answer is:

soave

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'wine' is the definition.
(I know that Soave is a type of white wine)

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

(Other definitions for soave that I've seen before include "Italian dry white wine" , "Italian wine region" , "White wine from NE Italy" , "Dry white wine from Verona" , "Drink" .)

I've seen this clue in The Sunday Times.

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