Crossword Genius

Wine bar stocks old (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

soave

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'wine' is the definition.
(Soave is an example)

'bar stocks old' is the wordplay.
I cannot really see how this works, but
'old' could be 'o' (common abbreviation eg in OE for Old English) and 'o' is located in the answer.
'bar' could be 'save' (both can mean 'except') and 'save' is located in the remaining letters.
This accounts for all the letters.
This may be the basis of clue (or it may be nonsense).

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for soave that I've seen before include "White wine from NE Italy" , "Italian wine region" , "Italian dry white wine" , "Drink" , "Dry white wine from Verona" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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