Wine initially served around lunchtime? That's the way things are (2,2,2)
I believe the answer is:
as it is
'the way things are' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)
'wine initially served around lunchtime?' is the wordplay.
'wine' becomes 'asti' (I've seen this before**).
'initially' indicates taking the first letters.
'around' indicates putting letters inside.
'lunchtime?' becomes 'i' (apm could be I on a clock with Roman numerals).
The initial letter of 'served' is 's'.
'asti'+'s'='astis'
'astis' enclosing 'i' is 'AS IT IS'.
'that's' is the link.
(Other definitions for as it is that I've seen before include "Like now" , "Given the position, in the circumstances" , "In current circumstances, the way things are" , "true to life" , "In the existing circumstances" .)