Crossword Genius

Wine one is mad about at middle-age? (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

graves

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'wine' is the definition.
(left bank subregion of Bordeaux in France)

'one is mad about at middle-age?' is the wordplay.
'one is mad about' becomes 'raves' (I can't explain this - if you can you should give a lot more credence to this answer).
'at' says to put letters next to each other (I've seen this in other clues).
'middle' says to take the centre.
The middle of 'age' is 'g'.
'raves' after 'g' is 'GRAVES'.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for graves that I've seen before include "A Bordeaux wine" , "Scots garment" , "Wine - English poet - tombs" , "French wine region" , "White wine - found in churchyard" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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