Crossword Genius

Wine, when it is from the east (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

asti

'wine' is the definition.
(Italian wine)

'when it is from the east' is the wordplay.
'when' becomes 'as' (eg 'when I walked' means 'as I walked').
'is from the east' is a reversal indicator (on a map from right to left).
'it' written backwards gives 'ti'.
'as'+'ti'='ASTI'

(Other definitions for asti that I've seen before include "Capital of a north-west Italian province, known for its sparking wine" , "Sparkling drink" , "18" , "Piedmontese white wine" , "Italian white wine" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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