Crossword Genius

Wine when it turns (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

asti

'wine' is the definition.
(Italian wine)

'when it turns' is the wordplay.
'when' becomes 'as' (eg 'when I walked' means 'as I walked').
'turns' is a reversal indicator.
'it' reversed gives 'ti'.
'as'+'ti'='ASTI'

(Other definitions for asti that I've seen before include "- spumante, It. wine" , "Piedmont wine city, SE of Turin" , "Italian white wine" , "Italian town producing sparkling wine" , "Sparkling drink" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.
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