Drowning in espresso, a reluctant fly (4)

I believe the answer is:

soar

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'drowning in espresso a reluctant fly' is the definition.
I can't tell whether this definition defines the answer.

'in espresso a reluctant fly' is the wordplay.
'in' says the answer is hidden in the clue.
'SOAR' can be found hidden inside 'espresso a reluctant fly'.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for soar that I've seen before include "Significant rise" , "Rise high in flight" , "Fly high, Leicester river" , "Rise high into the air" , "take to the air" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.

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