Crossword Genius

Hot food is very cold, but not cold (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

balti

'hot food' is the definition.

'very cold but not cold' is the wordplay.
'very cold' becomes 'baltic' (baltic can informally mean very cold).
'but not' is a deletion indicator.
'cold' becomes 'c' (eg on taps).
'baltic' with 'c' taken out is 'BALTI'.

'is' is the link.

(Other definitions for balti that I've seen before include "Spicy Indian dish served in a metal pot" , "Indian cuisine served in the cooking dish" , "food from India?" , "Pakistani curry dish, originating perhaps in 1970s' Birmingham" , "Asian food" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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