A New Zealander with taste (4)

I believe the answer is:

kiwi

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'a new zealander' is the definition.
(informal term for someone from New Zealand)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for kiwi that I've seen before include "one with big bill" , "Sacred Japanese peak" , "N Zealand bird" , "Flightless NZ bird" , "Flightless New Zealand bird" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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