Crossword Genius

A way one identifies sparkling wine (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

asti

'sparkling wine' is the definition.
(Asti is a type of sparkling wine)

'a way one' is the wordplay.
'way' becomes 'st' (abbreviation for street).
'one' becomes 'i' (Roman numeral).
'a'+'st'+'i'='ASTI'

'identifies' is the link.

(Other definitions for asti that I've seen before include "It's a (anag) - wine" , "White wine named after a town in Piedmont" , "Italian wine - (then change a letter for ...)" , "town in Italy" , "Italian white wine" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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