Crossword Genius

Artist conceding to pinching good joint of meat (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

gigot

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'joint of meat' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for gigot that I've seen before include "A bit of mutton" , "Perceive by touch" , "Mutton or lamb leg" , "joint of meat" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.
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