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Bottled gas, at best, missing the precious stuff (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

gold

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'precious stuff' is the definition.

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for gold that I've seen before include "One of the Magi's gifts" , "gift from a king" , "first gets this?" , "Valuable metal" , "bull's-eye" .)

I've seen this clue in the Irish Times.
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