Complain about the meat (4)

I believe the answer is:

beef

This clue is a double definition.

'complain' is the first definition.
(beefing is a kind of complaining)

'the meat' is the second definition.
(beef is a kind of meat)

'about' is the link.

(Other definitions for beef that I've seen before include "Grumble - muscle" , "Brawn; complaint" , "joint, perhaps" , "Grumble over cattle meat?" , "it's unacceptable for vegetarian" .)

I've seen this clue in the Sydney Morning Herald and The Globe and Mail.

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