Constantly sidestepping Stein's fish dish (10)

I believe the answer is:

shiftiness

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'dish' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I can't see how one could define the other.

'constantly sidestepping stein's fish' is the wordplay.
'stein's fish' can be anagrammed to 'SHIFTINESS'.
However, I am not sure how the anagram is indicated.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for shiftiness that I've seen before include "trickery" , "Evasive quality" .)

I've seen this clue in the Irish Times and the Irish Times (Crosaire).

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