County chess excellent all round (5)

I believe the answer is:

essex

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'county' is the definition.
(English county)

'chess excellent all round' is the wordplay.
'ESSEX' is hidden within the letters.
But, I am not sure how this is indicated.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for essex that I've seen before include "County, its tasteless moneyed Man" , "Chelmsford area" , "Queen's favourite" , "Ancient kingdom" , "Southend's county" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.

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