Criticise grouse meat (5,4)
I believe the answer is:
roast beef
'meat' is the definition.
(roast beef is a kind of meat)
'criticise grouse' is the wordplay.
'criticise' becomes 'roast' (I've seen this before).
'grouse' becomes 'beef' ('beef' can be a synonym of 'grouse').
'roast'+'beef'='ROAST-BEEF'
(Other definitions for roast beef that I've seen before include "meat dish" , "Traditional English food" , "Joint" , "Typical English dish" , "traditional meal" .)