Essential points in baking buns (4)

I believe the answer is:

nubs

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'essential points' is the definition.
'nubs' can be an answer for 'points' (I've seen this in another clue). I'm not sure about the 'essential' bit.

'baking buns' is the wordplay.
'buns' anagrams to 'NUBS'.
However, I'm not clear how this is indicated.

'in' is the link.

Can you help me to learn more?

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.

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