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Flavours of fish, hint of smoke moving to the fore (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

spices

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'flavours' is the definition.
(I know this)

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

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(Other definitions for spices that I've seen before include "Aromatic flavourings" , "Adds piquancy" , "Cinnamon, cardamom etc" , "Mace, ginger etc" , "Food flavours for Pisces" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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