Is calf love a partiality for it? (4)

I believe the answer is:

veal

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'is calf' is the definition.
(veal is calf meat)

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

(Other definitions for veal that I've seen before include "meat, R [ROSE] maybe" , "Calf's flesh as food" , "what the meat course may be" , "White meat" , "Calves' flesh as food" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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