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Modern, say, incorporating special style (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

taste

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'style' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

'modern say incorporating special' is the wordplay.
'modern say' becomes 'tate' (I can't explain this - if you can you should believe this answer much more).
'incorporating' is an insertion indicator.
'special' becomes 's' (common abbreviation as in Special Air Service).
'tate' enclosing 's' is 'TASTE'.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for taste that I've seen before include "Relish or discrimination" , "Appreciation, discernment" , "Sensation of flavour" , "Smack" , "Experience - discrimination" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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