Museum, either end of which is filled with historic items? On the contrary (9)
I believe the answer is:
hermitage
'museum' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)
I don't understand the rest of the clue.
(Other definitions for hermitage that I've seen before include "Home of a recluse" , "Secluded retreat" , "Place of retreat" , "Recluse's abode" , "St Petersburg museum - Rhone wine" .)