Crossword Genius

Outstanding if not actually well done (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

rare

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'outstanding' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for rare that I've seen before include "Might steak be" , "Exceptional" , "Very scarce and probably valuable" , "Scarcely seen" , "Meat that's lightly cooked" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.
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