Pierce fine material, threading first of needles through (5)

I believe the answer is:

lance

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'pierce' is the definition.
(I know that lance is a kind of pierce)

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

(Other definitions for lance that I've seen before include "Long pointed weapon of old" , "Long, pointed weapon (5)." , "fish" , "Pointed instrument" , "Shafted weapon used on horseback" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.

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