Crossword Genius

Say it’s awful meat (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

roast

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'meat' is the definition.
(roast is a kind of meat)

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for roast that I've seen before include "Cook; criticise" , "Reprimand - cook" , "Traditional Sunday lunch" , "Sunday meal" , "Bake" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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