Crossword Genius

Setter was in the van, needing return fare from here (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

deli

'fare from here' is the definition.
(delicatessen, somewhere to buy food or 'fare')

'setter was in the van needing return' is the wordplay.
'setter' becomes 'i' (the person that set the crossword).
'was in the van' becomes 'led' (to go 'in the van' is to go at the front).
'needing return' says the letters should be written in reverse.
'i'+'led'='iled'
'iled' reversed gives 'DELI'.

(Other definitions for deli that I've seen before include "Food shop or counter" , "Fine foods shop" , "part of supermarket" , "Special shop" , "small food shop" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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