Crossword Genius

... that character taken around fish (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

tautog

'fish' is the definition.
(tautog is a kind of fish)

'that character taken around' is the wordplay.
'that character' becomes 'tau' (tau is a kind of letter of the alphabet**).
'taken' becomes 'got' ('get' can be a synonym of 'take').
'around' shows that the letters should be reversed in order.
'got' written backwards gives 'tog'.
'tau'+'tog'='TAUTOG'

(Another definition for tautog that I've seen is " fish for supper?".)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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