Crossword Genius

The right way to grip cold food item (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

taco

'food item' is the definition.
(type of Mexican snack)

'the right way to grip cold' is the wordplay.
'the right way' becomes 'tao' (the 'right way' in Chinese philosophy).
'to grip' indicates putting letters inside.
'cold' becomes 'c' (eg on taps).
'tao' going around 'c' is 'TACO'.

(Other definitions for taco that I've seen before include "Tortilla with savoury filling" , "Mexican dish of rolled tortilla with filling" , "Mexican snack" , "Coat with Mexican dish" , "quick dish" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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