What the "in" people have to eat (6)

I believe the answer is:

entree

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I'm afraid I can't even guess how this answer relates to the clue.

(Other definitions for entree that I've seen before include "Dish served between fish and meat courses" , "The right of admission or entry" , "The right to enter a particular sphere" , "Dinner course" , "The right ot privilege of admission" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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