A fruity bird? (4)

I believe the answer is:

kiwi

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'bird?' is the definition.
(kiwi is a kind of bird)

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

(Other definitions for kiwi that I've seen before include "Flightless NZ bird" , "Chinese gooseberry" , "New Zealander (informal)" , "one with big bill" , "'Fruit, bird and NZ rugby player (4)'" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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