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Her consensus: he returns every now and then for meat (7)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

essence

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'meat' is the definition.
(synonyms)

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for essence that I've seen before include "Attar" , "Perfume or concentrated extract" , "Plant extract flavouring" , "Vital part of something" , "Soul" .)

I've seen this clue in The Hindu.
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